Lord Howe Island

8-15 December 2016

Lord Howe Island has been on our radar for many, many years. This year the stars aligned and we came across for a weeks break. The island has more than lived up to expectations. 

Lord Howe Island is a place that many come to relax. For us, it’s not really what we do. We’ve had a thorough look around the island and that has at times been challenging. 

Day one we oriented ourselves, set ourselves up with bikes and tested the water at Ned’s beach. It’s an interesting experience in the water there. The fish are routinely fed by tourists. So there’s no swimming without them. It’s a beautiful spot. By day the noddies and terns about. At night the flesh footed shearwaters (mutton birds) fly in, crash land and set themselves up for the night – either in their burrows or on the road. 

With the weather looking good, we arranged to climb Mt Gower the next day. We rode our bikes out to the start of the walk in the south of the island. Nearby there were woodhens – the bird brought back from the brink of extinction with the removal of cats and pigs from the island. 

The climb of Mt Gower must be done by tour and most of the remaining walkers arrived by bus/taxi. Looking at how few photos we took during the walk seems a good indication of how focused we were on doing that. 

Initially it was a leisurely walk along a grass track. This didn’t last too long before there was a scramble over rocks along the coast. Then we turned up and ascended the hill to a rocky ledge. There helmets were required just in case of falling rocks. It was also the start of ropes there to assist the climb through. At the end of the ledge the helmets were hung up on the trees for the return journey. 

There were periodic breathers and at one the island practice of climbing the Kentia palms to retrieve seeds for propagation was demonstrated. 

We continued upwards, down, upwards through the lower forest and across a creek – time for morning tea. Then the upwards resumed more steeply again to the saddle between Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower. 

After a break for the magnificent view at the saddle we continued upwards. The forest ever changing with different palms appearing as we climbed higher. 

As we proceeded steeply upwards Ball’s Pyramid came into view – 23 km away in the sea. The use of ropes steadily increased and became more and more essential to continuing the climb. 

Along the way we saw birds flying – many sooty terns, red tailed tropicbirds, a few Lord Howe Island currawongs, some Lord Howe Island golden whistlers, an Australian kestrel and near the top of the mountain there were several woodhens. 

After reaching the flatter area of the top of Mt Gower, we continued through the forest to an opening for a view back over the island. Another spectacular view that photos do not do justice. 

The return journey was the reverse requiring equal concentration as we climbed down with the aid of ropes, through the forest and over rocks. It was quite a journey, more than a challenge and a real workout but, regardless, well worth the effort. 

The rest of the walks on the island can be done unguided. So we set off to the north. We followed Old Settlement Beach and then began the climb up and then down to North Bay. Being summer the Mt Eliza walk is closed as sooty terns are breeding all over the mountain. We also found them blocking access to North Beach. 
So we continued on out to Old Gulch – a rocky bay. Then we climbed back up and took the circuit to Kim’s lookout for the panoramic view to both ends of the island. Then on up to Malabar for another magnificent viewing area. At both places we watched red tailed tropicbirds soaring off the cliffs. Midway between we spotted what must have been a huge turtle. We could see it basking in the sun on the water well below us. 

From there we continued down onto Ned’s beach for a swim with the fish again. 

We then visited the museum – a small but interesting display of the history and environment of island. One item was a model of the ship “Lady Penrhyn”. A first fleet ship that stopped at Lord Howe Island in 1788 en route to China after dropping the convicts in Sydney. 
Next stop was Stevens Reserve walk – a short meander through the forest where the local trees are identified and the occasional emerald ground dove appeared. 

The weather continued to be kind to us, so we took a boat trip around the island and out to Ball’s Pyramid. Along the way evidence of the volcanic formation of the island could be seen. We passed the Admiralty Islands and saw many sooty terns nesting there. We made our way past the Gulch and on past Muttonbird Island. There, there were many Masked Boobies nesting. Then it was on out to Ball’s Pyramid. Along the way there were many grey ternlets, flesh footed shearwaters, sooty terns and quite a few flying fish whizzing above the water. Apparently that means they were being chased by something and two small shark were seen. Near Ball’s Pyramid we were also lucky to see storm petrels and Kermadec petrels. 

Then next day the wind was up and the water was somewhat rougher, so we were happy that we’d already done our boat trip. 
Our next walk covered the area between the airport and Mount Lidgbird. We made our way out to Muttonbird Point with views back across Blinky Beach where we could see a solo fisherman fishing from the beach. We then followed the circuit along Smoking Tree Ridge and up to Intermediate Hill for a great view back towards the settlement area and from where we completed the circuit. 

Being our last full day we kept going and went kayaking on the lagoon across to Old Settlement Beach where we found a turtle and saw many waders along the beach. 
We made our way to the Community Hall for the Primary School fundraiser. Each Wednesday they show historic movies about Lord Howe Island, particularly about the old flying boats that once transported tourists to the island. 

Then it was time to catch the sunset looking out over the jetty near Old Settlement Beach. Then to see the super moon just risen above Ned’s Beach as the flesh footed shearwaters were coming in for the evening. 

 Views from our last morning from the Lagoon and Ned’s Beach. 

Last days in Sri Lanka – a land like no other

15-17 July 2016

We went by bus to Galle passing the stilt fishermen. Our guide and others have told us that they are fishing for the tourist dollar not fish. There were nice views of the ocean and fishing boats. 

Many stall holders were roadside selling coconuts and sometimes the days catch. We passed Taprobane Island once owned by writer Paul Bowles. 

Our first stop in Galle was the Dutch reformed church. 

Then we did a walk around the walls circumnavigating the old Dutch fort – at one point  with a view of the International Cricket Oval. 

There were many wedding photo sessions happening with lots of poses with the bride and groom and the guests. 

We watched a water monitor being harassed by house crows. 

There were people flying kites near the walls and playing cricket in the narrow streets. 

We continued around the wall back to the lighthouse. We stayed in a 250 year old guest house inside the  walls of the Old Dutch Fort within the UNESCO site. 

The train ride to Colombo. 

Colombo is not a very touristy town. We drove past the lighthouse which is in the middle of town and now operates only as a clock tower, the city hall with the Buddha in the Viharamahadevi Park and the theatre which looked more like a stadium. We first stopped at Petta Bazaar walking past the mosque and then we stopped at Independence Square. 

Petta Bazaar was a maze of clothing including saris and suits, materials, kitchen goods, hardware, spices and fruit and vegetables. 

After we walked around the Petta Bazaar we walked past the old Portuguese Bell Tower where prisoners were once chained and, as the water rose, they may have been eaten by crocodiles. 

Our last day was spent relaxing over lunch at the Barefoot Garden Cafe listening to a jazz band. Then walking back past a Dutch Reformed Church and a Hindu temple returning to sit by the endless pool at the hotel with wonderful views of the ocean. 

The food has been great with many wonderful curries, roti, kottu, tropical fruit and desserts including wattalappan, passionfruit mousse and chocolate brownie with icecream.  

Sri Lanka has been a beautiful place. Not a cheap destination nor an expensive one but well worth the visit. We’ve sent our usual postcards. It will be interesting to hear when /if they arrive. 

To Mirissa and beyond

13-15 July 2016

We drove through Ella Pass and stopped to see the Ravana waterfall. 

Next stop was the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage to see the feeding of the orphans elephants. Also there we’re two oriental scops owls and two rose ringed parakeets. 

Then it was on to Mirissa – a tourist town famous for its beaches. 

We did a day trip Sinharaja Forest Reserve. It was a fantastic place to see the local (endemic) birds and animals incline the Sri Lankan hill myna, Sri Lamkan hanging parrot, grey hornbill, Sri Lankan green pigeon, giant squirrel, purple faced leaf monkey, hump nosed lizard, kangaroo lizard and green pit viper. 

We also visited the Mirissa Fish Market. Most of the group had visited the day before and had seen piles of prawns. 

 

Flowers

A short walk

11-12 July 2016

Leaving our large packs in the care of Intrepid, we set off with our overnight pack to the Bandarawela station past the Buddhist temple and the mosque. We took the train to Idalgashinna. Then we set out along the train tracks at first. Then uphill at times through lemongrass, at times through eucalyptus and other times through pine trees before we walked through some rainforest or jungle into the tea plantations. It was a steady climb upwards. Before long it was time for morning tea – a plate of tropical fruit and a cup of tea. The views of the valley below were spectacular but hazy. In the rainforest we passed a huge beehive. 

There were women picking tea in the the tea plantations. We walked through very small villages and made our way 8 km up to the pass. That is where the wind started in a big way.  Then it was 4 km down to where we were staying at Udeweriya. Along the way we passed children at their school and we gave them pens, exercise books, etc. The very young children were given balls.

It was extremely windy by the time we reached our guesthouse. Sitting inside you could see the ceiling moving and the curtains sucked in and blown out as the wind blew. 

The second days walk was 4 km up and 8 km down. The wind was still extremely strong as we walked up. The views were impressive but difficult to capture in a photo as it was still hazy. 

As we made our way up the hill we came across some young girls on their way to school. They were very upset as the wind had blown one of the girls over and she grazed her hand. After making sure they were OK we continued on. 

We crossed the pass and continued down to another school. More pens etc for the children. They sang a few songs to us complete with hand movements and smiles. 

We stopped for morning tea a bit further down the hill. Tea and biscuits and a steady drizzle.  As we continued down Sri Lanka’s highest waterfall – Bambarakanda falls came into view off and on till the end of our walk. We also walked past a new mud brick home and one under construction complete with its scarecrow in front. The scarecrow is there to fend off the evil eye. 

The walk ended at a restaurant and our lunch spot about the level of the bottom of the falls.  

Two vans then took us to Hapitale. A small village in the mountain pass with views to the coast on a clear day – but not while we were there. Our hotel was well located for wake up calls – next to the mosque. We had a huge room – the elephant rock room. In the corner was a huge rock – handy for burning mosquito coils. 

Kandy tourist stuff

First we went on a tour of the wood carving. 

Then it was the Tea factory – it was a bit like being back at work. We enjoyed the cup of tea afterwards. 

Then it was a tour of the gem factory. There was a sales pitch for each and expensive product you could buy. 

The Botanic Gardens were well worth the visit. It was busy being Saturday but still lots of open space. We had lunch there and just as we finished the rain came down and did it come down. We shifted inside from our seats under the verandah and still some rain was coming in. So we waited it out before taking the local bus and then the tuk tuk to our hotel. 

We didn’t have long before we were off again to the cultural show. Lots of dance, acrobatics, drumming and the finale – fire walking. 

Sri Lanka – first two Capitals

2-5 July 2016

Negombo

After the long flight a relaxed day was in order. Also after the European weather it was more than a bit warm and humid. So acclimatising was also required. So we took a short walk turning left as we left the hotel. Past a church that seemed to be preparing for celebrations. Down to the beach where first we saw some chipmunks. There were fishing boats under the coconut palms and  on the sand above the water. Down one end of the beach there were many people. Some sitting on the rocks waiting for the spray of the waves that were crashing into the shore. Others were fishing and the waves were also washing over them. 

After a rest we took an afternoon  walk turning right as we left the hotel. We made our way past another church, then some Hindu temples and down to the market. 

En route to Anuradhapura we passed fishing boats on the beach and in the lake. We stopped at a Hindu temple. Then went to a coconut farm. There was a very detailed presentation on the coconut industry in Sri Lanka and the importance for its economy and culture. Part of this is toddy tapping which was demonstrated to us. After climbing up a coconut tree and across some ropes to the coconut flowers. The toddy tapper scrapes the flower and taps it to get the sap flowing. The result is a naturally occurring alcoholic beverage that can be drunk immediately. 

Mihintale was a short bus ride out of Anuradhapura. It’s a beautiful temple complex with two stupas, 68 caves, a huge Buddha and an interesting climb (a narrow climb on a rock with stairs sometimes and many, many people trying to go two ways on a one way path) to a superb view.  We also saw a giant squirrel that refused to be photographed. 

We cycled to Anuradhapura UNESCO World Heritage Site through the usual traffic of tuk tuks, vans, motorbikes and buses along narrow roads and through roundabouts. It’s a huge site and was Sti Lanka’s first capital. We visited the main stupas, reclining Buddha and bathing pool seeing the best preserved moonstone (semicircular carved rock that is in the entrance to important buildings) and best preserved guardstone (the carved end of the stone railing at the edge of stairs). The ruins were rediscovered covered by the forest and have been restored. 

The animals around Anuradhapura. 

We also cycled to Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s second capital. It’s an interesting combination of Hindu and Buddhist architecture in parts. The three Buddhas in a row – one sitting, one standing and one reclining were impressive. 

We’re in London Still – just

28 June -1 July 2016


Newport St Gallery – a small new gallery featuring the “Jeff Koons Now” exhibition. It was hard to keep out of the photos as they all encouraged reflection and thus viewer participation. We’ve seen his art before. The most notable the huge flower Dog outside the Bilbao Guggenheim. 

The gallery is owned by Damien Hirst who designed the cafe “Precriptions”. Apparently it’s based on his visits to the pharmacy with his grandmother when he was growing up. 

Guildhall – we saw the outside again. The inside being closed for yet another meeting. 

Jermyn St Theatre – whilst waiting to see “…and this is my friend Mr Laurel” we had lunch at a Korean takeaway that had apparently only recently started setting up outside St James church. Then a look inside where there was an art exhibition called “The Key”. 

“…and this is my friend Mr Laurel” was an off West End one man play about Stan Laurel chatting to Oliver Hardy, reminiscing about their lives and friendship after Hardy had had a stroke and was bedridden. 

Woolwich – we found that 25 Parry St isn’t a tourist destination. It’s much changed since the late 1800s early 1900s. The markets and butchers continue though. 

Views from the DLR en route

Deptford – a local woman confirmed that Carrington House has been gentrified to become Mereton Mansions. We suspect only the walls remain from the 1930s poorhouse. The photos show from the front and behind. 

Confraternity of St James – open at last. So we gave some assistance to some planning their caminos, bought a recipe book and were wished a Buen Camino as we left. 

Kew Gardens – the botanic art of Marianne North and Margaret Mees was well worth the visit. As was the art installation “The Hive” augmented by two sleeping tourists on a nearby bench. Kew Palace seemed a more habitable palace with a nice living area and dining room. 

Camden Market and Camden Lock – we wandered around the markets looking at prints, hats and food. We found some nice Brazillian (Portuguese) custard tarts and lemon tarts. As we wandered we went past the locks and canal boats. Unfortunately no one was going through the locks. We’ve found that quite entertaining at other locks. Usually there’s someone steering issuing instructions while someone else runs around and does the work. 

A British Roadtrip continued – then England

24-28 June 2016

Our time in England was divided between catching up with friends, visiting a few places we had wanted to see and driving. The driving was a bit challenging at times, the narrow roads but mostly the roundabouts where the view of exits and traffic is obscured by vegetation. 

As we arrived in Seahouses it was raining heavily. Fortunately that was short lived and we were able to wander around the pretty village. It’s the place where you can catch a boat to the Farne Islands where there are many seabirds.  Maybe another trip?

Lindisfarne – the castle 

We wandered around the castle which was once a Henry VIII fortress then converted to a holiday home in the early 1900s. The gardens were planted then too. There was a unique wind vane that was decorated with a map of its time. The views from the top floor were magnificent. 

Lindisfarne – St Mary’s Church and the Priory

The pilgrimage across the sands goes to St Mary’s Church. We didn’t have the time and as we drove out with the wind blowing water and/or sand over the pilgrims walking between the poles we weren’t disappointed. 

Cambridge

The internet usefully provided us with a great free walking tour that gave us a view of the many colleges of Cambridge University. Wandering down a Laneway we even had a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs.  We went past the Corn Exchange – where bands are still playing where they were more than 40 years ago. 

We visited an interesting hotel – the Eagle. It was the meeting place for many WWII pilots. They signed their names in candlewax on the ceiling before going out on missions. In another room Crick and Watson announced the discovery of the DNA double helix. The hotel had changed little in 40 years. 

Since watching “The Imitation Game” in the pouring rain and howling winds at the outdoor cinema at Wilson’s Promontory, we’ve been interested to see the place that inspired the movie.  Bletchley Park was interesting as expected. It was interesting on the tour to hear about another person, Gordon Welchman, who also made a huge contribution being responsible for organising and dealing with the people who made it all come together. There’s lots more to read about when we get home. The house is also impressive with its nice bay windows and interesting ceilings. But most telling was the drive there and away. That was when you learnt about the appropriateness of the location. The roads in and out are an absolute maze of roundabouts. Finding your way there is a feat of intelligence in itself. 

Stourhead house and gardens

The way to Stourhead house and gardens is past Stonehenge. It was very busy. The road going towards London was busy for another reason – Glastonbury festival had finished the day before. The cars well more than loaded and often with many passengers asleep. 

The house is very impressive full of Chippendale furniture and many paintings. It had been in a fire but they were lucky that the staff saved most of these valuable items. The centenary of WWI was marked with the story of the only son Harry who was killed during the war. 

The gardens were also impressive. Not a lot of flowers, some orchids and rhododendrons, but lots of trees and woodlands. On the lake there were many birds including tufted ducks, mute swans and great crested grebes. There were follies built around for effect – a grotto, a pantheon and a gothic house. 

Monday evening traffic in Corsham

Our roadtrip ended in Bristol – a convenient place to catch the Megabus to London. 

A British roadtrip – first Scotland

20-24 June 2016

After a long drive by the main highways, we made our way around Glasgow, up along Loch Lomond and out to Kintyre. 

Clachan

The views around Clachan are beautiful. There’s a lovely coast line as you drive in and the hillsides are very green. You can only imagine what an immigrant to Costerfield would have thought during their first summer. 

A friendly resident told me that architects come from around the world to see their church that has a horseshoe shaped pews for the congregation. As well as the upstairs seating area. The church dates back to the 1300s. 

Some of the row houses in the village looked quite old but very well cared for. Only the large house with the clock tower that we thought was the church looked in need of major repairs. 

There was even a “bookshop” – albeit that it was once a telephone box with payment donativo. Out on the main road there is a service station with a small food section. 

Campbelltown 

There was a nice port area where a ferry goes to Arran Island and fishing boats are moored. The theatre and small museum face the water front. Behind the museum is the Linda Macartney memorial garden. 

Not far away is the Aqualibrium. Designed by a famous architect, the swimming pool is on the top level the library underneath. With lots of local records you’d hope the pool didn’t leak. 

Fort William

In Fort William we had magnificent weather with great views of Ben Nevis. The water on Loch was amazingly calm. We visited Neptune’s Staircase but it was impossible to photograph the many locks as you see it on the Jacobite  (steam train). 

There were many wonderful views along the drive along Loch Laggan and through Pitlochry. 

Dunkeld is a beautiful village with many old houses near the cathedral owned by the National Trust. 

Birnam was a surprise with its Beatrix Potter Gardens and the Birnam Oak. Apparently Beatrix Potters spent a lot of time there as a child. Herbrother married a local woman and they lived nearby. So Beatrix had a long term connection with the area. 

The Birnam Oak is referred to by Shakespeare in Macbeth. Given Shakespeare died 400 years ago this year, the Birnam Oak must be considerably older.  

We made our way over the Forth Road Bridge with views of the UNESCO listed Forth Railway Bridge and the bridge under construction on the other side. Sorry but photos from a moving vehicle don’t really do it justice. 

A weekend in Copenhagen

17 June 2016 

After making our way from Navan to Dublin airport and flying to Copenhagen, it was really nice to be met with a smiling face as we came out of the gates. On our way to the Apartment we went through some of the Old Town, past Christiania where the police were very busy and past the colourful Nyhavn. We caught up over a traditional Danish meal – Stept flœsk med persillesous (pork with potatoes and parsley sauce) and then rød grød med fløde (a fruit porridge) with cream. Then our friends took us on a local tour on bikes. First to the Little Mermaid, then the Gefion fountain and back through Kastellet. It was a beautiful evening for it and great to see the Little Mermaid with few tourists.  

18 June 2016 – Copenhagen by foot and water

We set off on foot from the Apartment to the Old Town making our way from park to park to park into the Old Town. First visit was the Round Tower. The centre of the spiral staircase in the Round Tower originally marked the centre of Copenhagan. We walked up the spiral ramp with a view through to the attached church. It seemed that a baptism was about to happen. We continued up to the exhibition space where a photo exhibition on rural Denmark was currently on display. Then up the ramp followed by the spiral staircase to the viewing deck. Great views of the city and The Bridge to Sweden. The Round Tower was once a library and centre for astrology. 
From there we walked around the streets of the Old Town looking at the buildings that had survived the many fires of the city. Tudor style houses and groups of houses in a line known as Potato Row houses as they were built in perfectly straight lines.  The Potato Row houses once were at the edge of the city. We made our way to the new Central Market. The cheeses looked fantastic. We had the traditional open sandwich with fish and either a mayonnaise and pickililli or mayonnaise and prawns. Very nice. 

Then it was time to wander on our own. So we walked down the mall awhile. At Gamel Strand we found the sculpture “Agnete and the Merman” submerged in the canal. Then we made our way to The David Collection – an art gallery museum with a large exhibition of Islamic Art, a smaller exhibition of the Danish  Hammershoi and various porcelain and furniture pieces. Afterwards we walked to Nyhavn and did the Grand Canal Boat tour. Nyhavn is a beautiful place to start with its colourful houses and old wooden boats. The canal boat made its way past the Opera House where the Cliff Diving had been happening earlier. We missed it but saw the Facebook poses still in progress. We passed the decommissioned submarine and naval area. Then to the Little Mermaid which was surrounded by bus loads of tourists. Past Amalienborg Castle (home of “our” Mary) towards Christiania and a view of Our Saviour’s Church with its spectacular church spire that you can climb up on the external spiral staircase. We then went through the Old Town and past the Royal Stables, Borgen (parliament) and the Old Stock Exchange with its dragon spire and back to Nyhavn. 
Our walk back to the apartment took us past the Danish Museum of Art and Design and through Kastellet past the old windmill. 

19 June 2016 – Kronborg Castle then Louisiana 
It was a magnificent day for a Sunday drive. We took the beach road along the Whisky belt – where you find the biggest and best homes of Denmark. Through a forested area up to Helsingor to Kronborg Castle. We arrived to find the city was very busy as a half iron man was in progress. This meant parking a way away and walking across the ironman route a few times. Our visit to Kronborg Castle was timed very well. It’s a UNESCO listed site that Shakespeare set Hamlet in. Being the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death there are many celebrations in England and also at the Kronborg Castle. There was a troupe of actors performing parts of Hamlet. We followed Yorick into the cellars where Hamlet arrived and then a holograph of the ghost of his father appeared telling part of the story. From there we wandered through the Kings and Queens rooms, the enormous ballroom/banqueting room, up the tower for magnificent views of Helsingor and Sweden, and then down into the cellar to see the legendary giant Holger Danske. It is said that he will come to life to protect Denmark should Denmark be threatened by any foreign country. We were then farewelled by Polonius and Ophelia. 
On the way back to Copenhagan we stopped at the Louisiana Modern Art Gallery. There was some interesting modern art in a building that took in the beautiful surrounding gardens with many sculptures and a view out to the sea/harbour. 

 All in all a wonderful weekend catching up with wonderful friends met on the Camino.